Lièvre au Vin

Late in the winter, a friend gifted me a hare. The days were still cold and lean, and so I resolved to cook a warming meal. Down off the shelf came my dusty copy of F. Marian McNeil’s A Scots Kitchen, and I scrolled through the index for Jugged Hare, the classic slow-cooked northern casserole.

I had never eaten hare before, and I was determined not to waste a scrap. I hung it for a week exactly before setting to with preparations. Some say it should hang longer, and there is some snobbery about leaving game for as long as possible. But I wanted a compromise, and I didn’t want to spoil the dish with too strong a flavour. I remembered how to skin and gralloch it from the long-ago days when I used to shoot. I caught a strong gamey guff from the carcase, and for a moment I thought I might not be able to see this through. But the creature had been killed, and it would just have been wrong not to.

Before long I had disposed of fur and feet et cetera and was left with a fresh, clean carcase, as well as the heart, liver and kidneys. Once this was all washed and dried, I watched a video explaining how to butcher it. With a sharp cleaver and a good filleting knife this was easy, and I soon had forequarters, rib rack, sirloins and rear quarters separated out, patted dry, and ready for the marinade.

Is it just me, or does the name “Jugged Hare” sound totally unappealing? It would be so much more appetising if – like beef bourguignon or coq au vin – it had an exotic, European name. So, let’s say this dish is called Lièvre au Vin. I used half a bottle of Argentinian red for the marinade. It should steep overnight or maybe a wee bit longer. I don’t agree with chefs who say you should use very expensive wine for cooking, but I don’t think you should go too cheap either, or the dish will suffer. Strike an appropriate compromise!

The stew is founded on the holy trinity of carrot, onion, and celery. These are fried in butter for a peedie while and then removed from the pan. Then the fore and hind quarters of the hare should be removed from the marinade, dried, and browned in the butter. These then go into the slow cooker with the marinade wine and the vegetables and maybe a handful of mushrooms. Sear the rib rack, sirloins and kidneys and refrigerate to add later towards the end of cooking (or they will disintegrate). Deglaze the frying pan with a bit more wine, swill round, and add this to the slow cooker so as not to lose a drop of flavour. Season and add thyme and crushed juniper berries for aromatic notes, then cook the leg joints all day long on a minimal heat.

While we wait, a very old man once told me an even older tale about a peedie boy in Rousay who was out walking on the hill. He came across a hare lying in a hollow in the grass. The boy lit on the hare, and managed to grab a hold of it, but was not strong enough to kill it. A hare is bigger than you imagine, more like a small deer than a big rabbit. He stretched it around his waist and carried it all the way home to the croft where his mother dispatched it, providing a welcome meal for the family in a hungry time.

Resist the urge to open the lid of the slow cooker, but you will have to eventually. Top up the wine. Add a drop of cognac if you are partial to cognac. Some say you should stir in the blood and the chopped liver at this point, but I baulked at that. And anyway, my stew was rich enough as it was. Add the sirloins and the kidneys. By now, the colour is an incredibly deep, dark, ruddy brown.

Remove the pieces of hare from the sauce and take the meat off the bones. It will have become ultra-tender and will simply fall off. Return the meat to the pot to heat through, and then serve with tatties and green beans, if you like.

One hare fed three of us on a Sunday evening, with enough left over for me to have another plate on Monday. It goes nicely with a glass of the same red wine used for cooking, if there’s any left. The meat was beautiful. Dark but not strong at all, and the gravy was without a doubt the richest and most satisfying I have ever enjoyed.

Horsegowks o Onziebust

Me Granny wis the schoolteacher in Egilsay for a time in the fifties. Me Grandfither haed been wounded in the war, but he wis still able tae fish a few creels and did some work in the quarry. Me Dad and me Auntie spent long, happy summers in Egilsay taegether as bairns, wandering barefoot ower the links, meedos and beaches. When he wis a peedie boy, Dad wis able tae identify any wan o the handful o island tractors if it drove past the schoolhoose at night, cheust by the music o hid’s engine. Most o the ferms haed tractors, but wan or two still worked ‘horse’ (the correct owld Orkney plural o horse being also, of course, horse). Dad returned tae Egilsay as a young man tae shoot horsegowks in the meedos o the ferm o Kirbist, whar the tethered heavy horses cropped perfect circles o short turf surroonded by dense longer cover. This combination, plus the horses’ rich cannonballs o dung and the invertebrates they supported, created perfect conditions for the horsegowks.

So it wis wae keen interest that we travelled on Setterday tae Egilsay for a tour o Onziebust, the neeboring ferm tae Kirbist, whar RSPB Orkney run a splendid mixed herd o Shetland and Aberdeen Angus kye. The kye are there tae graze the sward short, and tae produce dung – creatan optimal conditions for breeding Whaups, Teeacks, Shalders, Wattery-Pleeps, Horsegowks, Black-tailed Godwits, and thur fledgelings. And the fledgeling data that reserve warden Vicky and her colleagues have gathered for Onziebust is notheen short o spectacular. Careful conservation grazing management and the creation o artificial ‘wader scrapes’ – shallow, dished pools o standing watter – is paying a muckle dividend in peedie birds. On this wan green isle at the heart o Orkney, RSPB workers are daean whit they can tae reverse the catastrophic decline in the numbers o breeding Orcadian waders.

But this is also a proper workan ferm, and washes hids face financially. Stockwoman Flora explained tae wur group hoo sheu manages the herd. The kye calve ootside in Mey, and there is a dialogue between reserve manager and stockwoman regarding the needs o the kye, and the needs o the birds. The kye are excluded fae key nesting areas until the peedie birds are able tae keep oot fae under thur feet. Because they are native Scottish breeds, they hae few calving issues, and dae weel even on the weet areas o the ferm. The stock were lukkan magnificent, wae heavy fleshy cover, their black coats gleaming in the September sunshine.

The day was an inspirational one for fermers like wursaels, demonstrating beyond doot that it is feasable tae combine effective conservation wae profitable production. While Vicky’s enthusiasm for her wader scrapes was infectious, Flora’s passion for her work wae the baests was equally compelling. Future conversations I’d like tae hae wae RSPB partners would include consideration o whether a fully organic management regime might no create an exponential rise in invertebrate numbers, and therefore an even richer environment for the waders. I’d also be interested tae hear whether ecologists would recommend the reintroduction o some horses among the kye; the equine/bovine relationship is a complex one, and is as yet little understood. It haes however been proved that when horse and kye exist taegethir, the parasitic worms o both are reduced in number. It’s mibby no coincidence that those Kirbist plough horses o decades past helped tae support such a healthy population o horsegowks.

Lairig Ghru

I met my friend Sean on the platform at Aviemore Station in beautiful evening sunshine. He had travelled from London, I from Orkney. We climbed the steps of the Victorian railway bridge to briefly take in the vast sweep of the magnificent Cairngorms, and our objective for the following day: the greatest of Scotland’s mountain passes, the Lairig Ghru.

Aviemore Station, with Lairig Ghru in centre of picture

Next morning, we set off into Rothiemurchus Forest at nine. It was already hot, and we were glad of the shade of the pines. Dragonflies, but no midges yet, flitted round the pools at the Cairngorm Club Bridge, and Goldcrests whispered in the treetops. We began to gain height. Starting to leave the dense forest behind, we moved out onto the open heather and in the direction of the pass. We spoke briefly to an older lady walker who was already on her way downhill – she must have been out on the hills early – and Sean wondered later if she was in fact the ghost of Nan Shepherd, the Aberdeenshire author who will be forever associated with the Cairngorms, and whose book, The Living Mountain, was part of the reason we were making our trip. This walk had been a long time in the planning, and it was thrilling to finally be making our way into the pass in the hard, blazing sunshine; Lurcher’s Crag and Sròn na Lairig gathered around us.

View back north towards Aviemore

The climb is long, and the boulder fields in the upper reaches are pretty hard going with a full pack on. The Lairig Ghru is never particularly steep, but it is dour and arduous. An almost wooden echo, like the bass notes of a xylophone, goes down through the great mounds of granite moraine as you pick your way from one boulder to another. The rubber stoppers on the ends of my walking poles were shredded before we had even reached the pass. Despite the recent drought, there were springs everywhere on the hill, all alive with frogs and tadpoles. Lizards, too, scuttled from our footsteps. When the path eventually peters out, it is just possible to discern the route by picking your way from one cairn to another, until you finally reach the 835-metre summit. We got there at about three o’ clock. At this point it is exhilarating to see Carn Toul and the Devil’s Point appear in the southern distance. The immensity of the mountains and the sheer length of the remaining walk become apparent.

Cool waters at Pools of Dee

We gladly dropped our packs for a break at Pools of Dee, and I made my way to the larger pool to wash my face in the gin-clear water. As my shadow darkened the pool, I was amazed to see peedie trout darting away. How could they have found their way into this boulder-locked tarn, 800 metres up in the mountains? (Do they swim up through underground channels among the rocks when they are fry, and then grow into small adults in the pools?) It was thrilling to be at one of the two sources of the iconic Dee.

Carn Toul with Devil’s Point behind

Neither of us had been in the Cairngorms before and reaching this midpoint and knowing the rest of the walk was downhill really lifted our mood. The Cairngorm mountains are awesome, epic, in the true original senses of these words. Four of the five highest mountains in our Anglo-Celtic archipelago are here. Ben MacDhui loomed into view to the East and I was reminded of reading Mollie Hunter’s novel The Haunted Mountain when I was a wee primary four boy in Kirkwall. The name, the story, and the ‘Great Grey Man’ have been in my imagination ever since. We passed the Tailors’ Stone in the early evening, and eventually, with gey sore feet, settled on some level ground next to the Dee in the vicinity of the Corrour Bothy to pitch our tent. We were glad of our midge hoods here as we boiled pasta before retiring to the tent for a couple of drams of Old Pulteney, diluted – but not too much – with Dee water, the water Nan Shepherd describes as ‘astoundingly clear’. We reminisced, told stories and had a few laughs. A water vole scuttled past on the river bank. Being this far north in June, the night didn’t become fully dark. But I slept soundly, waking briefly only once through the night to the familiar, comforting sound of a red grouse calling go back go back go back in the heather.

Ready to go again: northwards view back to the pass

A stove malfunction meant that breakfast was a gulp of water, half a dozen peanuts and a square of dark chocolate at seven on Saturday morning. Then we hit the path again, making our way south into Aberdeenshire. Other walkers on the hills had assured us we would enjoy the second day of the walk, and they were so right! Rounding Carn a Mhaim and descending into Glen Luibeg and the Mar Lodge Estate, the landscape became marginally less wild and forbidding as we began to penetrate the edges of the forest again. The ancient Scots pines here are magisterial, and standing deadwood renders the scene more natural, and even more beautiful. It is heartening to see the wilding efforts of the estate workers paying off with natural, young forest recovering and gaining altitude in these glens. Deer are few and far between, in natural densities of about three per square kilometre, and not browsing too heavily on the saplings. We watched an anxious mother grouse within two metres of us on the path, her brood no doubt close at hand. A cuckoo called clear as a bell in the pines a kilometre away across the river.

We had met only a handful of other people on the pass coming south, so it was lightsome to see a few folk out and about as we wound our way down towards Linn of Dee in the late morning. By now, we were watching excitedly, and slightly anxiously, for my sister and brother-in-law, who were walking up from Linn of Dee to meet us so we could complete the last few kilometres together. It was a great joy – and something of a relief – to finally meet them and their two friendly dogs on the hill, and then stroll down towards the great river. They had seen an adder basking on the path on their way up. It felt so good to get the packs off our backs and into their car for the run back down to Cults, where we enjoyed a cold beer and a hot supper before making a final shorter pilgrimage through the streets of the suburb to find the blue heritage plaque in memory of Nan Shepherd, outside the house where she lived for all her days.

(The height of the pass is 835 metres. At the end of day one, June 16th, Sean’s pedometer read 24.52 kilometres, and after day two, June 17th, it read 20.72 kilometres)

End of Season

This will be my last opportunity tae fish for seatroot afore the close o the season at the end o the month, so I rise early and drive the owld Skoda tae the shore. It’s an unnaturally warm October morning; the kind of day weather presenters announce in bright voices, but which to me confirms imminent environmental catastrophe.

I assemble the fly rod and fumble with line to attach a hook and a strip of salted mackerel belly, struggling to remember a knot shown to me thirty year ago by friend fae Stromness. Eventually, I get it, and the bait locks tae the hook. On the last of the flood, I step into the shallow water at the edge of the beach.

Passing over the edge of the sand, I roll cast oot beyond the clumps of bladderwrack that frightened me as a boy fisher: what could lurk among them; a conger, maybe, that would wrap round my leg? But the sun is bright in the late harvest sky, and I cast beyond into the deep. I raise a fish, so I ken I have the tide and the presentation of the bait right, but I fail tae hook it. There is nothing on earth to match the thrill of connecting physically with this wildest of creatures, a sea troot, with nothing but the pliant fly rod and a slender line between my hand and the rampant energy of the fish. I’m satisfied.

I’m retrieving the line to cast again and a massive selkie emerges within three meters of me, like a block of weet granite. I feel more than hear the plunge of its mass as it panics and dives deep, leaving a great boiling on the surface. I won’t write what I said, but it makes me laugh when I realise what has happened.

You’d think this turmoil might gluff the fish, but they are back within a matter of minutes, boiling on the surface, ripping the tail off my bait, leaping in the sunlight. When they are on, they are on. I raise another, and another, but I’m too slow to strike, or the hook is too rusted, or the tail of the bait is too long. I don’t ken.

I recall another piece of advice given to me by an expert sea troot man from Kirkwall: The fish will lie in very shallow water. I cast away from the pellucid deep water ahead of me – the very margin of the North Atlantic – and try a cast way back into the shallow miso soup of pounded, shredded ware on the water’s edge behind. And yes, there’s a fish there; it steals my bait again and is gone.

If it was all about catching, it would be called catching. But it’s fishing, and that’s the Zen of it, I remind myself, as the fish go off at slack water, and I bulder clumsily back tae the Skoda in leaky neoprene.

Dramman at the Nose o the Yard

August, early evening, at high

omniscient Mucklehoose, 

perched on the peedie green neb

o pasture – the ‘Nose o the Yard’ –

that sniffs oot between the mountain 

and the craig above the Pentland Firth,

I cam aroond the low, stone gable-end

(translated – I must admit – and a peedie bit 

high mesael eftir a hot day on the Hoy Hills)

toward the westering sun oot ower the Atlantic,

thowts o strong drink crossing me mind

like red throated divers in flight,

when I met suddenly wae the sweet 

black slap o pipe reek: and there he wis, 

GMB, sittan waitan for me! 

Duffel coat and biro laid aside, 

pipe guffan, a tin mug o paetbank 

whisky in his hand, and a gleam 

in the clear, impish eyes – oblivious

tae the peedie bugger midgacks.

Beuy, I said, It’s so good tae see thee!

Let me tell thee whit’s been happenan

while thoo’re been awey! Those fermers

and fishermen you ennobled? Weel,

most o them are still humble (but wan or two

did become money-grabbers and gilravagers 

o the land and the seabed). The demographic

has lurched. The pasture and tilth are aal

satellite-mapped. And the stones and the brochs 

are trampled by a million tourists. But here wae you 

noo it’s cheust possible tae believe that no aal o wur 

culture’s been thieved, misappropriated; some survives – 

like hoo tae catch a spoot, or hoo tae mak clapshot 

fae a frosted neep, or hoo tae navigate the roosts, or finnd 

your wey safely home fae the Dwarfie Knowes. Jaas,

the sacred heart o Orkney’s beatan still

noo that thu are back in Hoy again!

Whit whisky we drank! Whit yarnan we did!

Deep in wur cups as the stars chimed intae life

like peedie bells above the holy valley, watter

o life bringing us taegether again. Eventually,

there wis no gettan awey fae it, hid wis time

for bed. So we poured thee, George, golden spirit,

intae Glen’s paet barrow, and wheeled thee

up the track tae Sylvia’s, whar sheu wid watch

ower thee till dawn, while thoo dreamed the dreams

only a poet kens. Goodnight, George beuy, 

I said, but only temporarily, I love thee.

Crackan the troughs

A neebor said tae me a couple o year ago, ‘I mind when I war young gaan oot tae brak the ice on the troughs so the kye could drink. Ye cheust don’t get cowld waathir like that any more.’ Me faither-in-law minds the postie walkan right across the ice on the Boardhoose Loch wan winter in the forties tae cut short his route deliveran the mail.

Climate change is deeply demoralisan. Winters o notheen but relentless, weet, windy, soothwesterly waathir. Ye waaken up in the night and think aboot the poor sheep oot in that endless, drivan rain and wind, wind and rain. The worst thing for me aboot keepan animals in winter is the sea o gutter – every job ye go tae dae on the ferm ye get bogged doon in the weet and ye canna pull yer feet oot. Climate change maks the sheep miserable, teu.

These are the reasons why this current spell o deep cowld is profoundly reassuran and welcome; a return tae the fermers’ memories o owld. For the first time in me life, I hiv brokken the ice on troughs – for eight days in succession. While this waathir maks certain birds more apparent – snipe, in particular, struggle wae the frozen grunnd, and appear in unlikely places, visible and vulnerable close tae buildings or in patches o scrub, or on the salty shore – it is aisier on the sheep. Sheep can stand any amount o cowld, as long as they are dry. Weel fed on silage and barley, they sit content on the snow and in the February sun, relaxing in the later stages o thur pregnancies.

On the road home fae brakkan the ice and feedan the rams in the picture, twa Lapland Buntings accompanied me in flight for a hunder metres or so, keepan up wae the tractor at twenty mile an hour, and no at aal oot o place in crisp, georgeous Durkadale this eftirnoon.

At the Basílica de la Sagrada Família

At the Basílica de la Sagrada Família

Me heid sweeman a bit eftir twa tins
At midday, I paid the five Euro sum,
tackled the steps tae the triforium, 
strugglan wae the local vulgar Latin.

Less like a northern kirk this couldna be:
a daft dream o spires wraxan tae the sky,
yellow sculpted seeds, cool angels forby;
tae Earth Christ mibby cam - but no for me!

But doon in Gaudi’s crypt a silence fell.
I shuffled fae the buddom o the stair,
me belly fill o gassy San Miguel,

and lit a peedie candle. Holy Hell!
Whitwey can Catholic kirks caa a runt prayer 
fae godless Presbyterians, like mesel?

Norse Past, Victorian Present: Orcadian readings of Orkneyinga Saga

I am privileged to work in a school in the village of Pierowall on the Orkney island of Westray, and my Monday morning commute is pretty spectacular. At Kirkwall airport, I board the little eight-seater Britten-Norman ‘Islander’ aircraft, and within a few moments we are in the air. Climbing westward from Grimsetter, the Islander veers north over the spire of St Magnus Cathedral. Soon we are moving towards and over the expansive, fertile North Isles, peering down at the multitude of saga sites and viking points of interest among the grass, heather and rocks below. Orkneyinga Saga, the great book of Viking Orkney, often comes into my thoughts while I’m on this commute.

Within the first five minutes of the flight we are passing the farm of Langskaill, on the heathery isle of Gairsay, the homestead of Eric Linklater’s ‘ultimate viking’, Svein Asleifarson. A little further north appears the stone keep built by Norse chieftain Kolbein Hruga on the island of Wyre. Then comes the long, narrow, marshy isle of Egilsay, scene of the failed twelfth-century peace summit between cousins Magnus Erlendsson and Hakon Paulson, where Earl Magnus was murdered and martyred. (We fly directly over the stone cairn marking the site of Magnus’ execution.) Then we are out over the breathtaking expanse of the Westray Firth and fast approaching the magnificent modern steading at Tuquoy, where Haflidi Thorkelson built his Christian chapel in the twelfth century. The aircraft descends over Westray and the perfect aquamarine horseshoe of Pierowall Bay, scene of Earl Rognvald Kolson’s famous landing ahead of his successful bid for the earldom, and the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Orkney. We land with a comfortable bump on the airstrip at Skaill, in the north of Westray.

It is partly because of this geographical and topographical rootedness that reading Orkneyinga Saga remains such a vivid experience for Orcadians, a thousand years on from the events described in the text. In fact, such is the predominance of the Norse period in Orcadian historiography that the Picts who preceded the Norse, and the Scots who supplanted them, are all but forgotten. Creative writers, too, from Sir Walter Scott to Walter Traill Dennison, from Eric Linklater and J. Storer Clouston to George Mackay Brown, would mine this viking quarry for material for their poetry and fiction – to the virtual exclusion of all previous and subsequent Orcadian history.

So what of this saga text itself, if it can even be called a ‘text’? Orkneyinga Saga is a great medieval Icelandic prose work, written circa 1200. It is the bedrock underlying a great deal of the subsequent literature of the Orkney islands. Lumbering out of the Dark Ages and bristling with the myths of Orcadian origin and the exploits of pagan, viking earls, its first full translation into English appeared in 1873. As well as providing Orkney with a vivid and mostly historical account of its early medieval past, the saga has proven to be a deeply compelling and identity-shaping narrative. For many nineteenth- and twentieth-century Orcadian readers and writers, Orkneyinga Saga would come to be regarded as a ‘national’ epic. The saga is at once a historical chronicle and a literary fantasy. It is a Christian book of bloodshed that celebrates saints alongside murderers. Rich in paradox, invention and embellishment, it has enjoyed enduring popularity in English translation since the late nineteenth century.

There are four English translations, two from the Victorian era, and two from the twentieth century: Joseph Anderson’s edition of 1873, translated by Jon A Hjaltalin and Gilbert Goudie, and entitled The Orkneyinga Saga; George Webbe Dasent’s 1894 translation, entitled The Orkneyingers’ Saga; A.B.Taylor’s translation of 1938, also entitled The Orkneyinga Saga; and Hermann Palsson and Paul Edwards’ translation, called Orkneyinga Saga, which was first published in 1978. The translations differ widely in style according to their period, but all bear the hallmarks of medieval Iceland in terms of terseness and pace. The names chosen for the text by each translator, or pair of translators, follow Anderson’s lead – The Orkneyinga Saga – and suggest a certain unity, as well as stressing the insular, Orkney provenance of the material of the story. This impression of unity, the concept of the text’s belonging to Orkney – the sense of Orkneyinga Saga’s existence as a great Orcadian monolith – is in actual fact very much a Victorian construct. Later historians prefer the more neutral title Jarla Saga – the saga of the earls. A total of at least twenty-one distinct textual sources are incorporated into Orkneyinga Saga: it is an anthology of Norse literature pertaining to Orkney.

The saga begins with a fabulous opening sequence giving a mythological description of the origins of the Orkney earls in northern Norway and suggesting to medieval and modern readers a sense of independent Scandinavian Orkney identity. The opening words of the first chapter, ‘There was a king called Fornjot…’ might give us the feeling that we are entering the realm of folk tale, rather than a saga of flesh and blood characters. Moving on from this introductory section, the main body of the saga begins to emerge, detailing the lives and times of the historical Norse rulers of the medieval Orkney earldom. It moves swiftly to the conquest of Orkney, Shetland, and the Western Isles by King Harald Fine-Hair of Norway, and Harald’s handing over of the earldom to Rognvald of More as compensation for the loss of his son during the campaign. The saga then goes on to relate the deeds of subsequent earls as far as the end of the twelfth century. Its themes are violence and power struggle: between rival earls – cousins, brothers, uncles and nephews; between the Orkney Earls and Scots chieftains or kings; and between the earls and their overlords, the Kings of Norway.

The saga is epic in scale and depicts a vast and sometimes bewildering array of personalities. Outstandingly colourful episodes include the cleansing of Orkney of ‘pirates’ by ugly, one-eyed, keen-sighted Turf Einar – the shadowy earl who is aligned with Odin. Or the unlikely death of Sigurd the Stout, who decapitates an enemy and then fixes the head to his stirrup, only to die from an infection caused by the corpse’s tooth cutting into his leg. Or the scene where Thorfinn the Mighty leaps from the window of a burning house, his wife in his arms, before rowing across the wide Pentland Firth to safety. The core of the narrative is devoted to the lives of Baldur-like St. Magnus Erlendsson, who refused to fight in the arrow storm of a sea battle in the Menai Strait, and his nephew the debonair poet-warrior Rognvald Kolson, who built St. Magnus Cathedral in his uncle’s memory. Svein Asleifarson, the great picaresque viking of Gairsay, is not an earl, yet he turns up continually in this story, supporting earls, kidnapping earls, sleeping under the stars on the deck of his longship, living and dying by his sword.

The translation and publication of this ‘book’ in 1873 would excite the wildest atavistic dreams of those seeking to forge national or quasi-national identities in the north (British, Scottish, and/or Orcadian) through a century’s worth of subsequent literature and historiography. Where a text like Ossian had been invented to satisfy the longings of a particular Jacobite group, Orkneyinga Saga simply had to be translated – and assembled, anthologised – to supply a unique and often historical record of a ‘primitive’, ‘heroic’ society for Victorian and Edwardian readers. Antiquarians in Orkney would, of course, have more success in corroborating the prose of the saga than those who sought to verify the authenticity of the Poems of Ossian: St Magnus Cathedral was the defining architectural symbol of Orkney; the carved runes of Maeshowe confirmed the account in the saga that vikings were there; the broken bones of the saints were discovered in the pillar of St. Magnus where they had been hidden at the Reformation; the Skaill silver hoard, too, would corroborate the tales of buried treasure and reveal the former presence of the vikings written about in this book. There could be little argument with the provenance or the authenticity of Orkneyinga Saga.

So what of ‘national’ ownership of the text? Is this, then, the Scottish Saga? We might agree that there is something absurd in trying to assign a ‘nationality’ to this nebulous collection of pre-national, medieval texts. Despite its natural dwelling place among the literature of medieval Iceland, attempts have been made to draw Orkneyinga Saga towards the Scottish canon through the identification of Celtic lexis and motif in the prose. And specialists in the early poetry of what is now Scotland have anthologised the strophes of Turf-Einar, Arnor Jarlaskald, and Earl Rognvald Kolson for a collection of the earliest poetry of Scotland. But even a tentative designation of Orkneyinga Saga as ur-Scottish might seem ill-fitting and anachronistically nationalistic. Palsson and Edwards concur that the author’s identity remains unknown, although he was very likely a cleric associated with Oddi in the south of Iceland. Confirming, or suggesting, continued identification of the text in the Orkney imagination, their 1978 introduction invests in the saga a thrilling, emotive authority: ‘for the people of Orkney, it has a special significance, having become, since its first appearance in an English translation, what might be called their secular scripture, inculcating in them a keener sense of their remote forebears and sharpening their awareness of a special identity.’ This is a heady and emotional description indeed, suggesting that Orcadians might identify, over a stretch of eight or ten centuries, with the primordially distant characters/personalities of ‘their’ saga.

Onomastics and geography have added their own enhancing dimensions to the saga for these readers in Orkney. It is easier to argue that Orkneyinga Saga belongs to an archipelago than it is to say it belongs to a nation. If the Orkney landscape is everywhere littered with the stone and metal evidence of past peoples – the vikings among them – then the map of Orkney, and the Orkney imagination, are dominated by the place name legacy of the Norse. The topography of Orkneyinga Saga is instantly recognisable to anyone familiar with the modern names of the Orkney landscape. For Orkney readers, the saga enlivens this landscape in the imagination, and gives the impression of political and/or violent action taking place in small and seemingly peripheral places such as Birsay, Damsay, Deerness, Eglisay, Eynhallow, North Ronaldsay, Papa Stronsay, Rousay, South Walls, Stroma or Westray, some of them now uninhabited, places some might think of as being far from the centre of things. Details of stormy weather, accurate tidal knowledge, and evocative snatches of domestic agricultural detail combine with place names and the unchanged geography of the archipelago to enhance, for Orkney folk, the sense of home setting, of this being an ‘Orkney Book’.

So accustomed have we become to the categorisations of genre that there is a difficulty for us in coming to terms with a text which bridges historiography and literature in the way that Orkneyinga Saga does. We can only really appreciate this saga when we accept that it is a paradoxical combination of literature, history, anthology, and embellished historiography. While historians have occasionally expressed impatience with the saga (Michael Lynch describes it as ‘at once verbose and sparing with the facts’) its existence has nevertheless supplied us with a great deal of our knowledge of the Viking Age in Scotland. While the case for reading the saga as history was once encouraged, corroborated by the wealth of archaeological evidence, historians working in the late twentieth century have broadened our understanding of the material, embracing its literariness. The ideological project underlying the collection of the material of the saga is taken up again when writers such as Eric Linklater, J. Storer Clouston or George Mackay Brown promote it as the essential narrative of Orcadian identity.

Perhaps the enduring appeal of Orkneyinga Saga lies in its very amorphousness, the fact that it lies somewhere between history and fiction. It has doubill pleasance, to paraphrase Barbour’s famous comment at the outset of The Bruce, both in its carpying and its suthfastnes. Orkneyinga Saga cannot be completely dismissed as a fiction, nor can it be entirely trusted as a history. It is therefore a perpetually fascinating text, and – whether or not we buy into the primordial, atavistic and quasi-national appeal that many have found in it – it would be difficult not to agree that this saga remains one of the greatest tales yet told in the north.

(This essay first appeared in The Bottle Imp magazine of the Association for Scottish Literary Studies)

Tae thee, or no tae thee?

The owld Orkney pronouns – the ‘thoo’s, the ‘thee’s, and the occasional ‘thine’s – that well up like sweet spring watter in Westray and Papay and also, less frequently these days, in the West Mainland, present me wae a dilemma.

There’s no doot that previous generations o me family used these words. We hiv a family story aboot me great grandparents visiting a ferm on the Lyde Road in Harray. The wife o the ferm asked me great grandmither ‘Wid thoo be blide o a swine’s puddeen?’. And me Granny used tae tell me aboot someone who joked ‘Aal the world’s queer but thee and mee, and thoo’re a bit queer’.

But these pronouns are more or less completely extinct in Mainland noo. Wance, aboot ten year ago, in the bank in Kirkwall, a wife said tae me: ‘Pit in thee PIN number, buddo.’ And anither time I heard a North Isles bus driver sayan tae an owld wife, ‘On thu comes’ – never was there a gentler or a more compassionate utterance. In their twilight years, the writers Edwin and Willa Muir continued tae refer tae one anither in their Orkney and Shetland parlance as ‘beuy’ and ‘lass’, and they kept their island pronouns alive, although they had lived the literary life in Prague, Dresden, the United States. The ancient pronouns serve a function going way beyond the cowld, formal ‘you’ and ‘yours’; they convey a warmth, a generations-deep familiarity, a compassion.

So, is it ridiculous for someone who hasna really used them in the past tae employ these pronouns when addressing a bairn, a spouse, a beloved pet or farm animal, in the twenty first century? The resurrectionists of Welsh, Cornish, Manx achieve tremendous success in reviving their language in its entirety – whit can a peedie pronoun hurt?